Life around my building....

F-Stop: f/8
Exposure time: 1/80 sec
ISO: 200
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR

F-Stop: f/8
Exposure time: 1/25 sec
ISO: 100
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 34mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR

 

F-Stop: f/5.6

Exposure time: 1/80 sec

ISO: 200
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR

F-Stop: f/8
Exposure time: 1/50 sec
ISO: 200
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR

F-Stop: f/6.3
Exposure time: 1/40 sec
ISO: 200
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR

F-Stop: f/5.6
Exposure time: 1/100 sec
ISO: 200
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR




F-Stop: f/8
Exposure time: 1/50 sec
ISO: 200
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR



F-Stop: f/10
Exposure time: 1/320 sec
ISO: 100
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR



F-Stop: f/8
Exposure time: 1/200 sec
ISO: 100
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 32mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR



F-Stop: f/8
Exposure time: 1/125 sec
ISO: 100
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR



F-Stop: f/8
Exposure time: 1/160 sec
ISO: 100
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 26mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR



F-Stop: f/8
Exposure time: 1/100 sec
ISO: 200
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 22mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR



F-Stop: f/5.6
Exposure time: 1/100 sec
ISO: 200
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR




F-Stop: f/8
Exposure time: 1/50 sec
ISO: 200
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR

F-Stop: f/5.6
Exposure time: 1/60 sec
ISO: 200
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR

After Dark.......

F-Stop: f/5.6
Exposure time: 1/125 sec
ISO: 100
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR

F-Stop: f/5.6
Exposure time: 10 sec
ISO: 100
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 55mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR




F-Stop: f/3.5
Exposure time: 3 sec
ISO: 100
Exposure bias: +1 step
Focal length: 18mm
Lens: Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR

How to photograph Water Drops

Here's what is used to create this shot:

-Nikon D3000

- Nikon AF-S 18-55mm DX G VR Lens

-External Speedlite Flash*
-Bowl (Preferably with a nice pattern or colors)
-Water
-Dropper
-Tripod
-Ruler
-LOTS of patience!

*The external flash is not necessary if there is suitable lighting, just use camera's flash.

The camera settings...

Shutter Speed: 1/320
Aperture: f/4
Focal Length: 22mm
ISO: 200

You obviously need a fast shutter speed to capture the water, so a lot of light is necessary. I took these shots in the morning when sunlight was streaming through the windows, but I positioned the bowl so there were no reflections on the water.

I recommend using a colorful or patterned bowl because whatever is in or behind the bowl will be reflected within the water drops, so it's good to make it interesting.

I set up the tripod only slightly elevated above the surface of the bowl. Filled it with water, and got the camera ready. I switched the camera to manual focus. I stuck the ruler in the bowl about where I'd be dropping the water drops and focused the camera on it, locking the focus in place. Now, I was ready.

I began dropping the water using the dropper as close to the place where I'd stuck the ruler as I could get it. Now's the hardest part, timing. It's takes lots of practice and many trials, so don't forget your patience for this. You will eventually get the hang of when to press the shutter in relation to dropping the water, and I'm sure you'll come out with some great shots

Most of all, experiment! Try different shutter release timings and different angles.

Increase the shutter speed to freeze the motion of the drop if you are unable to get a perfect timing. But remember, this will result in a darker photo. My advise, use an external flash or High speed lens such as Nikkor 35mm AF-S DX F1.8 G and keep the aperture setting at f/1.8 for maximum light entry.

Night Photography using DSLR

One of the areas of photography that people get wrong is night photography, most people assume that you just use the flash and everything is fine. OK, this is fine for the odd snap shot of your friends or on a night out. But, if you want to get creative and make stunning images at night you’re going to have to do a lot more than just turn the flash on, when you have finished reading this you’ll be able to create images like this:

In this article I am going to show you how to use a technique called Long Exposure. Say good bye to harsh lighting and dark backgrounds. Sort of. This article will show you how to take pictures of night scenes with no moving objects. Night photos of people I will show you later on in another article as that is another kettle of fish.

Firstly, let’s pick a subject. For this article our subject will be a lake. That is easy, it doesn’t get too much more difficult. I promise. Now you have your subject, you’ll need to get your equipment setup. For this article, I’ll use my equipment to show you what is needed.
Equipment Required

The following list links to the equipment that I recommend and use. You can buy the items from these links.

• Digital camera
• Tripod
• Remote shutter release
• Something to do while exposing your shot
  

Now let’s get down to business. First, set your tripod up at the desired height, to save you any trouble later on make sure your tripod is level. You will thank me. Now, mount the camera on the tripod making sure it’s secure.
Setting Up Your Shot

Switch your camera to manual. OK, you’ve got this far it’s going good, time to set up the shot. Don’t bother composing your shot just yet as we have to sort some other things out first. Set your camera to auto-focus or AF. This may not work depending on the conditions but most of the time it will work just fine. Zoom in all the way and find a light source or light area that is the same distance away as the subject you want in focus, press the shutter half way down. Once the camera has focused on the light source or light area zoom all the way out (or however far out you want when you compose the shot, you can zoom in or out as far as you like it will always stay in focus) and make sure, without touching the shutter or the focus ring switch back to manual focus. Be sure you’re not touching the focus ring when you compose.

Now you have the camera focused you can proceed to compose the shot. This is something that no tutorial can tell you how to do, this is in the eye of the photographer. Be creative and show off your creative eye.

Tip: Wide angles create a bigger impact than longer focal lengths.
Setting The Correct Exposure

You’re almost there, the next major part is getting the exposure right, this is easy if you know how. The best way to expose your shot manually is to use your camera’s built in light meter as a rough guide, but not as a precise judge. When you first start you will need to follow it tightly but as you gain more and more experience you won’t need the meter at all.

Change the camera to AV mode(Aperture priority) Now, set the ISO to 1600. As a rough guide I recommend you stop down the aperture to f/8 to achieve maximum sharpness when using the Canon 18-55mm kit lens but you may need to keep it at f/3.5 depending on the conditions. Now, press the shutter half way and you will see the light meter, it’s a line with a small arrow, this will move around as you change the aperture. Adjust aperture accordingly so it makes the line stay in the middle. Once it is in the middle, press the shutter down half way. The camera will give you the shutter speed that you require, make sure you remember this number as you will need it to work out how long your final exposure will be.

For this next part you may need a calculator, depending on how good your mental arithmetic is. In my case I usually need to use the calculator on my phone, maths is not a strong point for me. Now we need to calculate how long we need to keep the shutter open for. As an example we will say the camera gave you a shutter speed of 10 seconds when we used the light meter, keep this number in your head. Now set the ISO to 100. Take your number (In this example 10 seconds) and multiply that number by 16. This gives us 160 seconds, Divide this by 60, this gives us about 3 minutes.

Now plug in your remote shutter release, set the camera to BULB mode (move the shutter down past 30 seconds). Get a timing device (Phone, stop watch or similar) and get it prepared to begin. Press the remote shutter release and lock it on. Start the timer.

If you want to be certain of good exposure then you can round it up to the nearest minute (In our case 3 minutes). Once you have reached the target time, unlock the remote shutter release and wait for the camera to proceed with noise reduction.

The end result will be a nicely exposed picture.

Inside a DSLR Camera

Cross-section view of DSLR system:

1. 4-element lens
2. Reflex mirror
3. Focal-plane shutter
4. Image sensor
5. Matte focusing screen
6. Condenser lens
7. Pentaprism
8. Eyepiece

A camera based on the single-lens reflex (SLR) principle uses a mirror to show in a viewfinder the image that will be captured. The cross-section (side-view) of the optical components of an SLR shows how the light passes through the lens assembly (1), is reflected into the pentaprism by the reflex mirror (which must be at an exact 45 degree angle) (2) and is projected on the matte focusing screen (5). Via a condensing lens (6) and internal reflections in the roof pentaprism (7) the image is projected through the eyepiece (8) to the photographer's eye. Focusing is either automatic, activated by pressing half-way on the shutter release or a dedicated AF button, as is mainly the case with an autofocusing film SLR; or manual, where the photographer manually focuses the lens by turning a lens ring on the lens barrel. When an image is photographed, the mirror swings upwards in the direction of the arrow, the focal-plane shutter (3) opens, and the image is projected and captured on the sensor (4), after which actions, the shutter closes, the mirror returns to a critical 45 degree angle, and the diaphragm reopens and the built in drive mechanism re-tensions the shutter for the next exposure. There is often a ring of soft material around the focusing screen, which helps to both cushion the impact of the mirror slapping up and help seal the mirror box from light entering through the eye piece. Some high end cameras incorporate a shutter into the eyepiece to further eliminate light that may enter there during long exposures.

How to choose a DSLR Camera

Here are a few factors to consider when looking for a DSLR:

1. Price – a good place to start when thinking about buying a DSLR is obviously price. DSLRs price range in price from some quite affordable deals at the lower end to extremely high prices at the professional end. Set yourself a budget for your purchase early on but make sure that you keep in mind that you’ll need to consider other costs of owning one including:

• Lenses (some deals offer ‘kit lenses’ but you should consider upgrading – see below for more on this)
• Batteries (all models will come with one but if you are travelling you might need a spare)
• Memory Cards (some models come with one but most are inadequate in terms of size. Even if you’re lucky enough to have one included you’ll probably want to upgrade to at least a 1 gigabyte card).
• Camera Bag (some dealers will throw one in – but once again don’t expect a high quality ‘free’ bag. Your DSLR is something worth protecting – invest in a good bag)
• Filters (at the least you’ll want to get a UV filter for each lens you purchase – but you might also want to consider other types down the track also).
• Extended Warrantees (there’s a variety of opinions on whether they’re good or not – but they’re worth considering)

2. What will you use it for? – when you head into a camera store to purchase any type of question the first thing most sales people will ask you what type of photography you want to do. It is well worth asking yourself this question up front as it will help you think through the type of features and accessories you’ll need.

Will this be a general purpose camera for recording ‘life’? Are you wanting to travel with the camera? Is it for sports photography? Macro Photography? Low Light Photography? Make a realistic list of the type of photography you will use it for (note I said ‘realistic’ – it’s easy to dream of all kinds of things you’ll photograph – but in reality most of us only do half what we think we will).

3. Size – DSLRs are all more sizeable than compact point and shoot cameras but there is a fair bit of variation in size between them also. Some photographers don’t mind carrying around weighty gear but if you’re going to use it for on the go photography (travel, bushwalking etc) then small and light models can be very handy.

4. Previous Gear - the attractive thing about DSLRs is that in many cases they are compatible with some of the gear you might already have.

• This is particularly the case for lenses. The chances are that if you have a film SLR that your lenses might well be compatible with a DSLR made by the same manufacturer. Don’t assume that all lenses will be compatible (particularly older gear) but it’s well worth asking the question as it could save you considerable money.
• If you have a point and shoot camera you might also want to look at the type of memory card that it takes as some models of DSLRs could also be compatible with them. This probably won’t be a major consideration as memory cards are considerably cheaper than they used to be but it could be a factor to consider.

5. Resolution – ‘how many megapixels does it have’ is a question that is often one of the first to be asked about a new camera. While I think ‘megapixels’ are sometimes over emphasised (more is not always best) it is a question to consider as DSLRs come with a wide range of megapixel ratings. Megapixels come into play as you consider how you’ll use your images. If you’re looking to print enlargements then more can be good – if you’re just going to print in small sizes or use them for e-mailing friends then it’s not so crucial.

6. Sensor Size – Another related question to consider is how big the image sensor is. The term ‘crop factor’ comes up when you talk about image sensor size – I’ll upack this further in a future article as it’s perhaps a little complicated for the scope of this one. In general a larger sensor has some advantages over a smaller one (although there are costs too). But I’ll unpack this in a future post (stay tuned).

7. Future Upgrades - will you be in a position to upgrade your camera again in the foreseeable future? While entry level DSLRs are attractively priced they tend to date more quickly than higher end models and you run the risk of growing out of them as your expertise grows and you thirst for more professional features. Ask yourself some questions about your current level of expertise in photography and whether you’re the type of person who learns how to master something and then wants to go to a higher model that gives you more control and features. It’s a difficult question but you might find it’s worthwhile to pay a little more in the short term for a model that you can grow into.

8. Other Features

Most DSLRs have a large array of features that will probably overwhelm and confuse you at first as you compare them with one another. All have basic features like the ability to use aperture and shutter priority, auto or manual focus etc but there’s also a lot of variation in what is or isn’t offered. Here are some of the more common features that you might want to consider:

• Burst Mode – the ability to shoot a burst of images quickly by just holding down the shutter release – great for sports and action photography. DSLRs vary both in the number of frames that they can shoot per second as well as how many images they can shoot in a single burst.
• Maximum Shutter Speed – most DSLRs will have a decent range of speeds available to you but some will have some pretty impressive top speeds which will be very useful if you’re into sports or action photography.
• ISO Ratings - Similarly, most DSLRs will offer a good range of ISO settings but some take it to the next level which is useful in low light photography.
• LCD Size – It’s amazing how much difference half an inch can make when viewing images on your cameras LCD. I noticed this recently when testing a camera with a 2.5 inch screen after using my own 1.8 inch one. While it might not change the way you shoot photos (people tend to use viewfinders at this level to frame shots) it certainly can be nice to view your shots on a larger screen.
• Anti Shake – in the past few weeks a range of new DSLRs have been announced by manufacturers in the lead up to the Christmas rush. One of the features that is featuring more and more in them is anti shake technology. While it’s been common to get ‘image stabilisation’ technology in lenses the idea of it being built into camera bodies is something that is attractive.
• Dust Protection – another feature that has started appearing in the latest round of cameras is image sensor dust protection (and in some cases self cleaning for image sensors) – something that will help alleviate a lot of frustration that many DSLR photographers have. To this point this is a feature that is mainly on lower end DSLRs but it’s bound to appear on new professional models also.
• Connectivity – Getting photos out of your DSLR and into a computer or printer generally happens these days via USB but some people like FireWire and/or Wireless.
• Semi-Auto Modes – As with point and shoot cameras – many DSLRs (especially lower end ones) come with an array of shooting modes. These generally include ‘portrait’, ’sports’, ‘night’ etc. If you rely upon these modes on your point and shoot you may well use them on your DSLR too. Higher end DSLRs often don’t have them.
• Flash – Generally professional grade DSLRs don’t offer built in flash and just have a hotshoe while entry level DSLRs include a built in flash.

Digital SLR Photography Basics

DSLR cameras are gaining traction in the non-professional realm, and with good reason. They deliver crisp and detailed photos with the type of quality that regular point and shoots lack. This is due to the fact that digital SLRs have larger image sensors, quicker shutter speeds with no lag time and higher creative controls. To make the most of a digital SLR, make it a point to learn the following technical terms and functions.

Digital SLR Photography Basics No. 1: Aperture

Aperture is the opening of the lens. A larger opening allows more light to be captured in the photo and creates out-of-focus areas, which is also known as bokeh blur. The aperture value is measured by an f-stop number. For instance, to shoot a portrait with an out-of-focus background, choose a smaller f-stop like f1.8. This creates a narrow depth of field. A larger f-stop like f16 has a wide depth of field, which allows both the background and subject to be clear and focused.

F-stop can be confusing because its measuring system may appear illogical. Just remember that a small f-stop number means a wider opening, which lets in more light and allows the photographer to create blurry effects in certain parts of the picture, typically the background. Since a lower f-stop creates more light, it is also used in darker settings.

Digital SLR Photography Basics No. 2: ISO

Digital SLR cameras are convenient since the ISO can be controlled digitally. The ISO is the film speed. The lower the ISO value, the slower the speed with less sensitivity to light. A lower ISO is best to use outdoors, in good lighting and whenever able since a higher number creates more noise and grain. A high ISO, such as 800 or 1600, is useful for darker settings because it has a higher sensitivity to light.

Digital SLR Photography Basics No. 3: Shutter Speed

Different shutter speeds are used to freeze an action or create motion blur with moving objects. Measured in fractions of a second, the shutter speed (time value) is how long the shutter is open. To freeze an action, use a shutter speed of 1/500 to 1/4000 seconds. To create motion blur, use a speed of 1/60 to 1/250 and follow the moving object through the viewfinder and press the shutter. Use a tripod for anything slower than 1/60 seconds since holding the camera can create unwanted blur from even slight camera shake.

Slow shutter speeds can create artful effects at night. For instance, setting the shutter speed for a long minute can capture the night’s lights, such as the moon, as the lens gathers light from different places. A person passing through the camera during the capturing process will appear transparent/ghostlike.

Understanding aperture, ISO and shutter speed are the digital SLR photography basics every photographer should be aware of. They are the three variables that work in conjunction with each other to balance the lighting and create a perfectly exposed photo.

DSLR Camera

A digital single-lens reflex camera (digital SLR or DSLR) is a digital camera that uses a mechanical mirror system and pentaprism to direct light from the lens to an optical viewfinder on the back of the camera.


Nikon D3000 with Nikkor AF-S 18-55mm (VR) DX ED f/3.5-5.6 lens

The basic operation of a DSLR is as follows: for viewing purposes, the mirror reflects the light coming through the attached lens upwards at a 90 degree angle. It is then reflected twice by the pentaprism, rectifying it for the photographer's eye. During exposure, the mirror assembly swings upward, the aperture narrows (if stopped down, or set smaller than wide open), and a shutter opens, allowing the lens to project light onto the image sensor. A second shutter then covers the sensor, ending the exposure, and the mirror lowers while the shutter resets. The period that the mirror is flipped up is referred to as "viewfinder blackout". A fast-acting mirror and shutter is preferred so as to not delay an action photo.

All of this happens automatically over a period of milliseconds, with cameras designed to do this 3–10 times a second.

DSLRs are often preferred by professional still photographers because they allow an accurate preview of framing close to the moment of exposure, and because DSLRs allow the user to choose from a variety of interchangeable lenses. Most DSLRs also have a function that allows accurate preview of depth of field.

Many professionals also prefer DSLRs for their larger sensors compared to most compact digitals. DSLRs have sensors which are generally closer in size to the traditional film formats that many current professionals started out using. These large sensors allow for similar depths of field and picture angle to film formats.

The term DSLR generally refers to cameras that resemble 35 mm format cameras, although some medium format cameras are technically DSLRs.

Photography

Photography is the process, activity and art of creating still or moving pictures by recording radiation on a sensitive medium, such as a photographic film, or an electronic sensor. Light patterns reflected or emitted from objects activate a sensitive chemical or electronic sensor during a timed exposure, usually through a photographic lens in a device known as a camera that also stores the resulting information chemically or electronically. Photography has many uses for business, science, art and pleasure.